A tree or a shrub can create a delightful focal point in your patio garden design.

Many of our gardens have at least one specimen plant, usually a tree but sometimes a shrub. A specimen plant is one that is eye-catching, beautiful, often architectural in form, and can stand alone in a yard or garden. Such specimen plants do not only have to reside in the ground. You can bring one or more onto your patios, decks or balconies and create the same visual effect.

Many smaller scale patio trees are absolutely wonderful specimens, and they can remain perfectly happy living in a container. Ficus Benjamina, the Weeping Fig, is not the only tree that we can have on our patios! Even if you don't have a backyard, you can still have a tree on your patio.

Also, many people forget to consider shrubs for their containers. Many of our shrubs are just as happy and healthy in a container as in the ground. How simple it is to bring foliage and flower color into your patio gardens! Just pick your favorite shrub and design your patio garden around its color and form.

And you know what else is great? You can prune many shrubs into an open tree form, creating a beautiful specimen piece. Try this technique with a camellia or azalea. They are beautiful in an open graceful form, like an oriental painting.

Now, you may be tempted to plant flowers at the base of your tree. They will add color but their roots will compete with the root system space of your new tree or shrub. Instead try this — mulch using colored landscape glass, stones in your favorite colors and textures, or bark. You will be delighted with the impact, especially using colorful landscape glass or stones!

Of course, container selection is very important — it must be large enough for the plant's future root system growth. Potting soil and fertilizers are also very important. Select a high quality potting mix, and do not forget to mix in a controlled release fertilizer. Also, remember that moisture retention is frequently a problem with containers, so mix in a soil polymer that will hold on to the moisture between watering.

We'll match you up with the correct products once you've selected your tree and/or shrub.

Well, what are you waiting for? Summer is around the bend and it is time to decorate your outdoor living space. Come on in "Patio Daddy-os"! We'll be looking for you in our tree and shrub section.

First, a note on summer planting — There are those that think rose planting season is over by now. After all, it's past the first of June; aren't they supposed to be planted in cold weather at bareroot season? Nonsense. You can plant roses in the summer.

Here are a few tips for hot weather planting: Always make sure the rose is well watered before planting; never plant (or fertilize) a dry or wilted plant. Provide lots of water after planting. It's a good idea to trim back some of the top growth so the roots don't have to work so hard. You can safely take off about 1/3 of the top growth. Use lots of planting mix and save some for a top dressing of mulch to help keep the roots cool.

Once they are planted, these simple tips on care can help you keep your roses happy and healthy.

Caring for Your Roses

Watching For Problems:

Remember that prevention by proper care is the best protection against problems. Roses need :
1. A sunny location
2. Rich moist soil
3. Regular feeding

The Most Common Problems Are:

Aphids. Tiny insects found on the tips of new growth and buds.

Bristly rose slug. This larva of the sawfly is found on the underside of the leaves. It eats leaf tissue, leaving a lace effect. It's not hard to control, but will do a lot of damage if ignored.

Thrips. Tiny insects found on the inside of flowers, thrips cause distorted and stunted blossoms. They usually show up at the end of summer in warm weather.

Powdery mildew. A fungal disease that looks like white dust on the leaves.

Rust. A fungal disease that looks like orange powder on the backs of the leaves. Avoid watering late in the day to help prevent fungal problems.

Neem oil and narrow range oil will take care of most problems. It's good to have some on hand to catch problems early.

There is a wealth of information available on rose care. By following the simple basics discussed here, even the beginning gardener should be able to enjoy roses. Just remember — lots of sunshine, lots of water and regular feeding.

The American Rose Society is working on a list of favorite roses for different climates which should be very helpful in our quest to find the best roses for our area.

Quick Overview of Modern Rose Types

Grandiflora — Tall and similar to Hybrid Teas, a cross between Hybrid Teas and Floribundas. Example — 'Queen Elizabeth'
Polyantha — Compact free flowering plants on compact bushes. Example — 'Margo Koster' and 'China Doll'
Miniatures — Small leaves and flowers. Usually 1-2 feet tall, but can reach 6 feet!
Climbers — A mixed group with long arching canes that need support.

Who says academia can’t be fun?

The International Institute for Species Exploration at Arizona State University each year lists its top 10 newly discovered Species of the Year. Our first listing of the ten is arguably the smallest pygmy seahorse known to exist. Cute reef critters, these creatures are at the top of divers’ wish lists. They can be found in the Asia-Pacific region, with the Bargibant’s pygmy seahorse (Hippocampus bargibanti) the first species to be named, back in 1970. Thirty-three years later Denise’s (H. denise) and Coleman’s (H. colemani) were named.

But these tiny creatures are being found left and right! In late 2008, three new species were named as Pontoh’s (H. pontohi), Severn’s (H. severnsi) and Satomi’s (H. satomiae), all from Indonesia, Borneo and as far afield as Fiji.

Satomi's Pygmy Seahorse is the smallest known seahorse, according to the Institute, with an average length of .54 inches and a height of .45 inches. Named after Satomi Onishi, the dive guide who collected the specimens, it was found in the locale of Derawan Island off Kalimantan, which is the Indonesian portion of Borneo.

Uniformly beige in color, with small orange blotches on the head, back and tail, the Satomi’s Pygmy often has a small black spot between the eye and snout. Found only at dusk and night, it’s a bit of a loner. It hides below ledges, and doesn’t associate to any specific coral or algae. If a flashlight is shone on it, this little seahorse spins like a cartwheel, pivoting with its prehensile tail curled onto a twig or other growth. Or it will just swim away from any light source. An active critter, indeed! And definitely worthy of a place on the Top 10 list.

Click here to view more Strange Species!

Product Spotlight: Gardner & Bloome™
Blue Ribbon Potting Soil

People who love to garden love Gardner and Bloome™ Blue Ribbon Premium Blend Potting Soil. It is formulated for use in all indoor and outdoor container planting applications, and excellent for hanging baskets and raised bed planting. It may be mixed with existing garden soil in beds or containers to enhance soil texture, drainage and fertility and improve the quality of the soil.

Our 100% natural, completely organic peat-based formula includes Alfalfa Meal, Worm Castings, Kelp Meal, and Bat Guano. The extra absorbent, fine-textured blend keeps tender roots moist and aerated between waterings. And its abundant essential plant nutrients promote quick growth and long-lasting health for all types of container plants.

Gardner and Bloome™ Blue Ribbon Premium Blend Potting Soil contains specially screened bark particles combined with porous pumice promote optimum air space and excellent drainage in the root zone. In addition, it includes several species of beneficial Mycorrhizae soil fungi. These living organisms dramatically improve water and nutrient absorption by enhancing the root system of many plant species.

So now you know what so many gardeners know--Gardner and Bloome™ Blue Ribbon Premium Blend Potting Soil is the secret to planting a great garden, no matter the size.

Earwigs are the brownish/black insects (about ¾ inch long) with pointed pincers on the rear of their abdomens. Earwigs' lifelong pursuit is to be active members of the insect cleanup crew of the garden. They chew up plant debris and turn it into humus. For this job, earwigs are considered a beneficial insect. You rarely see this insect out in the open, but rather under leaves, under low growing foliage plants or in a woodpile. Creating humus is part of the earwig "career" that is a positive thing for any garden.

However, they also have a liking for new tender foliage and this is what gets them into trouble with gardeners. When they eat tender foliage, they are considered a pest.

There are a number of different earwig management techniques. Earwigs like dark, damp places in the yard. In these locations, place rolled up newspapers or low-sided cans coated with oil. The earwigs will crawl inside of either of these traps, and you can simply throw them away. If, however, you have an infestation of earwigs eating too much of the new foliage, you may find it necessary to apply an earwig bait. A follow up application two weeks later usually takes care of any stragglers.

Ultimately, the best way to prevent earwig infestations is to keep the garden clean and remove potential earwig hiding spots. A few here and there are more helpful than harmful to your gardens, but if they're making a meal out of your prized plants don't hesitate to pull out the bait!

Answer:

Most homeowners bag lawn clippings because they think that the clippings add to the buildup of thatch. This is not true. Clippings that remain on the lawn quickly decompose and release valuable nutrients and beneficial bacteria that actually feed on the thatch layer. Fertilizer needs can be reduced by 20 to 30 percent if the clippings are left on the lawn. The shorter the clippings, the deeper they fall into the turf.

The use of a mulching mower and/or frequent mowing will produce the smallest clippings. If you don't have a mulching mower, consider mowing your lawn twice at one time. This will further reduce the size of the clippings and distribute them deeper into the lawn. Mowing when the grass is dry and fertilizing properly will also help to prevent an excess buildup of thatch.