We spend thousands of dollars on our lawns, and hundreds of hours of work to make them beautiful, but sometimes there just is no protection against a common lawn fungus, and it can take months to bring our lawns back from an attack.  So be proactive; mow and water regularly, and learn to recognize the signs of a fungal attack so that applications of a fungicide can save your lawn and help your wallet.

Common fungus types are the following:

Fairy Ring: 
Bright green circular areas that appear to be growing more rapidly than the rest of your lawn are probably fairy rings, a fungus that often occurs after an extremely rainy period.  If the fairy ring consists only of mushrooms or puffballs, with no stimulated grass growth, simply rake off and dispose of these fungal fruiting structures. If handling the mushrooms, wash your hands when done. 

As serious injury to the turf does not occur often with fairy rings, the most practical method of dealing with them in lawns is through a cosmetic approach. Disguise the symptoms by providing adequate water deep into the root zone, and by applying moderate rates of fertilizers. This will increase the vigor of the surrounding grass to the level more like that of the grass in the fairy ring. Excessive application of water or fertilizer should be avoided as either may contribute to other turf diseases or stimulate fairy ring development. More frequent mowing may make the difference in height between the grass of the fairy ring and adjacent grass less conspicuous.

In rare cases where complete eradication of a fairy ring is necessary, the sod and underlying soil in a band 40 to 55 cm (approximately 15-20 inches) in front of and in back of the ring can be removed to a depth of 20 to 90 cm (app. 8-35 in.), depending on the extent of the development of the ring. The resulting hole should be replaced with clean, preferably sterilized, topsoil or soil mix. New sod or seed can then be established where the fairy ring was removed. Soil fumigants are sometimes effective for eliminating fairy rings, but this treatment must only be done by a licensed pest control applicator who is qualified to safely use toxic fumigants.

Dollar Spot:
That straw-colored spot the size of a silver dollar in your lawn is a fungus that thrives on dry, undernourished lawns.  Appearing as small, white cobwebby spots in the morning that turn brown later in the day, it is best treated by application of a sulfur fungicide to the affected areas every 3 to 5 days until the spots are gone.  After treatment, apply frequent, light applications of nitrogen to aid your lawn in its recovery, and follow up with regular mowing to cut off the tips of the infected grass, eventually eliminating the fungus.

Pythium Blight:
This particular fungus presents as a blackened, water-soaked appearance of patches of grass in your lawn.  During humid weather, you may also see a cottony growth also known as cottony blight or grease spot. Prevention is your best method of avoiding it; water your lawn in the early morning instead of the late evening.

Rhizoctonia blight:
Also called brown patch or summer patch, this is a fungus that kills circular patches of the grass up to 2 feet in diameter.  It flourishes in warm temperatures, especially with damp conditions caused by thatch, and St. Augustine grass is particularly vulnerable.  Apply a sulfur fungicide to the infected areas every 3 to 5 days until the symptoms improve.  To avoid reccurrence, remove underlying thatch with a rake or a dethatcher, avoid applying heavy doses of nitrogen fertilizers, and improve drainage.

This is by no means a complete list of lawn fungals, but the common themes of over-watered lawns, dry lawns, and poorly maintained lawns can lead to unwanted fungus.  If you see what you think may be a problem, identify the condition, and treat accordingly.  Our garden center experts are here to help you grow and maintain a beautiful and healthy lawn. 

We know it's a bit early to think about Halloween parties. But if you want some Halloween pumpkins, you need to plant NOW. The giant, prize-winning 500 pound monsters are usually started in late May, as they take 130-160 days to grow. But there are lots of pumpkin varieties that grow faster--and it's not yet too late to plant those.

You might want to consider those that are particularly tasty for pies or edible seeds. And keep in mind that the petite ones are great for decorations for Halloween and Thanksgiving.

With all varieties, it is best to plant 3 to 5 seeds in a mound. Space the mounds 2' to 3' apart. The small-fruited varieties will grow well on a fence or trellis. The larger varieties need ground space or individual support for each pumpkin.

Keep the soil evenly moist and feed every 2 weeks. If you are growing them on the ground, place straw or cardboard under the fruit as the pumpkin matures, to help prevent rot and insect damage. Pick them when the stems start to dry. Be sure to leave a 3" or longer stem for that perfect jack-o'-lantern top!

Gardening can be a tremendously enjoyable and rewarding activity. But it can also be the source of accidents, many of which can be preventable. Most accidents happen when gardeners take shortcuts, lack the skill or training to do a job properly, ignore potential risks, don't plan well or just have plain old bad luck.

While lawnmower accidents top the list of reported incidents, flowerpots (surprisingly) are the second highest cause of incidents: falling on people, cutting them or being the source of lifting injuries. Most accidents can be avoided just by using a little common sense, and while the ideas below may seem obvious to some, it's amazing how easy it is to forget them when we are wrapped up in a project.

Start by making your garden a safer place to enjoy. Design a garden that reduces the need for high maintenance. Double check for potential tripping hazards such as hoses, sprinklers, irrigation pipes and loose slabs of paving. When designing walkways or patios, incorporate surfaces that provide a good grip and aren't slippery when wet.

Avoid the garden when conditions are slippery. Don't leave sharp tools lying around--and if you are swapping tools, be sure to put the ones not in use with the sharp side (or tines) down. I'm sure we've all seen the cartoons of people stepping on a rake and knocking themselves in the face...but that's only funny in a cartoon.

Don't use electrical tools in wet weather, and make sure to wear safety equipment such as safety goggles, ear plugs and gloves when operating them. Also tuck in loose items of clothing.

Don't plant poisonous plants--or make sure that children and pets can be kept away from them. Lock away chemicals like pesticides and weed killers, or at least store them out of reach of children and pets. Never leave a barbeque unattended while cooking and make sure flames are extinguished before you go inside.

Empty wading pools after your children have finished playing in them. Avoid building a pond until a child is at least five years old, and position it (the pond) where it can be seen from the house. Grow plants around the deeper sides of a pond to help prevent children getting near the edge, or build a fence around it to keep them out.

Make sure ladders are put away or hung up when not in use. Ensure that the ladder is in working condition and the steps are structurally sound before using it. Never leave tools on the platform at the top of the ladder where they can cause injury if the ladder is accidentally bumped. Don't leave clippings on the rungs of the ladder where they might cause you to slip or trip.

When using a ladder, make sure it is tall enough to do the job. Be aware of the safety marks for standing on your ladder, and make sure it has rubber feet for solid footing. Always place your ladder on level, solid, non-slippery ground. Face your work and never lean sideways, overstretch or stand too high on the ladder. Last, keep one hand firmly on the ladder at all times.

Gardening should be fun and shouldn't be dangerous. Taking a few minutes to exercise caution will make gardening a much more enjoyable experience.

Click to print this article.

Product Spotlight: Gardner & Bloome™
Blue Ribbon Potting Soil

People who love to garden love Gardner and Bloome™ Blue Ribbon Premium Blend Potting Soil. It is formulated for use in all indoor and outdoor container planting applications, and excellent for hanging baskets and raised bed planting. It may be mixed with existing garden soil in beds or containers to enhance soil texture, drainage and fertility and improve the quality of the soil.

Our 100% natural, completely organic peat-based formula includes Alfalfa Meal, Worm Castings, Kelp Meal, and Bat Guano. The extra absorbent, fine-textured blend keeps tender roots moist and aerated between waterings. And its abundant essential plant nutrients promote quick growth and long-lasting health for all types of container plants.

Gardner and Bloome™ Blue Ribbon Premium Blend Potting Soil contains specially screened bark particles which, combined with porous pumice, promote optimum air space and excellent drainage in the root zone. In addition, it includes several species of beneficial Mycorrhizae soil fungi. These living organisms dramatically improve water and nutrient absorption by enhancing the root system of many plant species.

So now you know what so many gardeners know--Gardner and Bloome™ Blue Ribbon Premium Blend Potting Soil is the secret to planting a great garden, no matter the size.

Spring brings with it beautiful blossoms, fresh air, warmer temperatures . . . and bugs!  Ants, gnats, tent worms, none of which are pleasant.  Ah, but spring also gives us ladybugs and lady beetles (Hippodamia convergens), which are the best-known garden predators available.  There are nearly 5,000 different kinds of ladybugs worldwide, 400 of which live in North America.  In fact, Delaware, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, Ohio and Tennessee have adopted the ladybug as their official state insect!

As legend has it, in Europe, during the Middle Ages, the crops were being destroyed by insects, so the farmers prayed to the Virgin Mary for help.  The ladybugs came, ate the pests, and saved the crops!  The grateful farmers began calling the ladybugs “The Beetles of Our Lady” which eventually morphed into “Lady Beetles.”

With aphids, mealy bugs and mites being their favorite food, ladybugs are some of our most beneficial bugs; an adult ladybug can eat over 50 aphids a day.  These small, oval-winged insects are usually red with black spots, and are less than ¼ inch in length.  As they age, the color of the spots will fade.  If a bird, the primary predator of the ladybug, threatens a ladybug, she will play dead.

Some more silly facts about this delightful and advantageous visitor to our forests, fields, gardens, and yes, even our homes:

• Ladybugs chew from side to side and not up and down like people do.
• A gallon jar will hold from 72,000 to 80,000 ladybugs.
• A female ladybug will lay more than 1000 eggs in her lifetime.
• The Asian Lady Beetle can live up to 2-3 years if the conditions are right.
• In Sweden, it is believed that if a ladybug lands on a young maiden’s hand, she will soon be getting married.
• In England, finding a ladybug means that you will have a good harvest.
• In France, if you are sick and a ladybug lands on you, when it flies away, it will take the sickness with it.
• If you find a ladybug in your house in the winter you will have good luck!

Get to know your beneficial insects. They can be very useful in keeping the pests away and reducing the use of chemicals. And remember--when you do need to use chemicals in your garden, read the instructions carefully and consult with one of our nursery professionals, who can advise you on the best one to use for your particular problem.  

Answer:

First, your plants won't look happy. (Surprise) The foliage will look dull and lack the luster and intense color of a healthy plant. If it is a blooming plant, it may produce few blooms or none at all. When the condition becomes severe, the plant will drop its leaves from the interior first, eventually working its way to the leaf tips.

The second sure sign is if you are not watering much but the ground stays continually wet or even has moss or algae growing on it. The soil may also have an odor to it. What is important to remember is that every time plants are watered, it lowers the soil temperature by up to twenty degrees. Most plants are stimulated to grow as the soil temperature warms up. If the soil is always wet, the soil temperature will be cooler than the plant desires and it won't grow much.

Poorly draining soil also attracts bad bacteria that can attack the root system, in addition to providing less oxygen for the plant. If you think you have bad drainage, gently lift the plant out of the ground with a shovel--being careful not to damage roots.

If the soil is wet at the bottom of the hole, dig it deeper and back-fill with at least six inches of gravel. Then build a mound that will raise the plant 3-6 inches higher than the surrounding soil level and re-plant so that the top of the root ball is level with the top of the mound. If that doesn't work, you may need to find a different location for the plant.

Click to print this article.